ORIENTAL CULTURE, OF which Morocco is certainly a part, has at its root a belief in selflessness. It's a subject rarely spoken of in the West, and even less frequently understood. To be selfless, you would give charity anonymously, walk softly on the earth, and look out for others--even total strangers--before you look out for yourself. For the Arab mind, the self is an obstacle, an impediment, in humanity's quest for real progress. Life in Morocco introduced me time and again to people who had achieved a form of everyday selflessness. It was a quality I respected beyond any other, a goal--perhaps unattainable--I hoped one day to touch. I found myself wondering if the search for the story in my heart might be a component, an element somehow linked to selflessness. As