"We will be evaluating some nasty oils. You will have to put them in your mouth.* For the good of science. For the good of olive oil. We are here to help the producers, to tell them, What attributes does the oil have, does it have defects, what can they do differently next year--treat the olives better, pick them at a different time, et cetera." There will be no pay. No one will reimburse for the seven-dollar parking-garage fee. The existing panelists are known to have some prickle, to borrow an official olive-oil sensory descriptor. "You may be thinking, wow, I really don't want to be on this thing." The faint of heart are invited to pack up and go. No one moves. "All right then." Langstaff surveys the room. "Shields up." She is referring to removable panels used to partition the room's long tables into private tasting booths. This way, you aren't influenced by the facial expressions (or test answers) of the people seated next to you."