"So this is the Sierras, eh?" he said, looking out over the dark lake. "All that time growing up I never made it up here before." "It's the Range of Light," I said, passing the joint back to him. "That's what John Muir called it. I can see why. I've never seen light like I have out here. All the sunsets and sunrises against the mountains." "You're on a spirit walk, aren't you?" Paco said, staring into the fire. "I don't know," I said. "Maybe you could call it that." "That's what it is," he said, looking at me intensely. He stood. "I've got something I want to give you." He went to the back of the truck and returned with a T-shirt. He handed it to me and I held it up. On the front was a giant picture of Bob Marley, his dreadlocks surrounded by images of electric guitars and pre-Columbian effigies in profile. On the back was a picture of Haile Selassie, the man Rastafarians thought was God incarnate, rimmed by a red and green and gold swirl. "That is a sacred shirt," Paco said as I studied it by the firelight. "I want you to have it because I can see that you walk with the spirits of the animals, with the spirits of the earth and the sky." I nodded, silenced by emotion and the half-drunk"