"Rognons de Veau a la Bordelaise is simplicity itself to make; no different, essentially, from Poulet Saute, and no different, especially, from Bifteck Saute Bercy. In fact, making it that night felt like falling into a time warp- I stood before the stove, melting butter and browning meat and smelling the smells of wine deglazing and shallots softening- but the dishes changed before my eyes, and I heard Julia warbling, "Boeuf Bourguignon is the same as Coq au Vin. You can use , you can use , you can use ...."