But so little has changed. This is practically the same country I left thirty-five years ago. Maybe worse. The government doesn't even care enough to help you.' This was too broad a subject. She said with what seemed like hesitation but something that was actually a statement of fortitude, 'It's - just - light a little candle.' We passed grass huts, smallholdings of tobacco, some of them being harvested, soggy fields. Not much traffic, though many ragged people marching down the road. 'My husband is sixty-four. He's going to retire sometime soon. The government has no plan to replace him. They probably won't send anyone.' She looked grim, saying this. 'If we're not here, there'll be no one 'What'll happen then?' 'They'll die,' she said softly. 'They'll just die.