But the moment I realized that Pomiane was not just sympathetic but deeply on my side came in his recipe for Boeuf a la Ficelle (top rump suspended in boiling water by a string). When it is done, you are told to: 'Lift the beef from the saucepan and remove the string. The meat is grey outside and not very appetizing. At this moment you may feel a little depressed.' Isn't that one of the most cheering and pedant-friendly lines a cook ever wrote? 'You may feel a little depressed.