"plays a game with his wine-marketing classes at Napa Valley College. The students, most of whom have several years' experience in the industry, are asked to rank six wines, their labels hidden by--a nice touch here--brown paper bags. All are wines Wagner himself enjoys. At least one is under $10 and two are over $50. "Over the past eighteen years, every time," he told me, "the least expensive wine averages the highest ranking, and the most expensive two finish at the bottom."