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We were eighteen thousand vertical feet above sea level, in the mouth of Everest's killer jaws. I noticed my hand was shaking as I fumbled with the ropes through thick mittens. It was pure fatigue. An hour later, it felt like we were still no closer to base camp, and it was starting to get late. I glanced nervously around the icefall. We should be meeting back up with Nima somewhere around here, as arranged. I scanned around but couldn't se..
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Eventually, at 7:22 A.M. on the morning of May 26, 1998, with tears still pouring down my frozen cheeks, the summit of Mount Everest opened her arms and welcomed me in. As if she now considered me somehow worthy of this place. My pulse raced, and in a haze I found myself suddenly standing on top of the world. Alan embraced me, mumbling excitedly into his mask. Neil was still staggering toward us. As he approached, the wind began to die away..
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The rope I was dangling off wasn't designed for a long impact fall like mine. It was lightweight, thin rope that got replaced every few days as the ice, on the move, tore it from its anchor point. The rope was more of a guide, a support; not like proper, dynamic climbing rope. I knew that it could break at any point. The seconds felt like eternity. Then suddenly I felt a strong tug on the rope. I kicked into the walls with my crampons again..
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Highlights of the Brunel featured the likes of Mr. Iraci, our landlord, coming around and being greeted by myself, stark naked, painting cartoons on my bedroom wall to liven the place up a bit; or Eddie showing another pretty girl his technique for marinating venison in a washing-up bowl full of Bordeaux wine. Our housekeeping kitty of funds would miraculously evaporate due to Hugo's endless dinner parties for just him and up to ten differe..
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I was also really fortunate at Eton to have had a fantastic housemaster, and so much of people's experience of Eton rests on whether they had a housemaster who rocked or bombed. I got lucky. The relationship with your housemaster is the equivalent to that with a headmasterat a smaller school. He is the one who supervises all you do, from games to your choice of General Certificate of Secondary Education (GCSE), and without doubt he is the t..
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Lying in my tent alone that night I wept quietly, as all the emotion seeped out of me. For the second time in recent years, I knew I should have died. I wrote: March 31, midnight. The emotions of today have been crazy. And through it all, I just can't quite fathom how the rope held my fall. Over supper this evening, Nima spoke in rapid, dramatic gestures as he recounted the episode to the other Sherpas. I received double rations from Thengb..
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One of the optional subjects that we could study at Eton was motor mechanics, roughly translated as "find an old banger, pimp it up, remove the exhaust, and rag it around the fields until it dies." Perfect. I found an exhausted-looking, old brown Ford Cortina station wagon that I bought for thirty pounds, and, with some friends, we geared it up big-time. As we were only sixteen we weren't allowed to take it on the road, but I reckoned with ..
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Trucker and I did quite a bit of busking together on our guitars, doing the rounds at various Bristol hot spots. This included the local old people's home, where I remember innocently singing the lyrics to "American Pie." The song culminates with the spectacularly inappropriate claim that this would be the day that I'd die. A long, awkward pause followed, as we both realized our predicament. The home wasn't a long-standing gig after that. W..
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On our next return to base camp, and after the best night's sleep I had had since arriving in Nepal, I decided that I would call home on the satellite phone. At $3 a minute, I had not yet used the phone. I had enough debts already at this point. I'd originally intended to save my phone call for when and if I had a summit bid. "Mum, it's me." "Bear? It's BEAR!" she shouted excitedly. It was so good just to hear the voices of those I loved. I..
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We were now receiving daily very accurate weather reports from the Bracknell Weather Centre in the UK. These gave us the most advanced precision forecast available anywhere in the world. The meteorologists were able to determine wind strengths to within five knots accuracy at every thousand feet of altitude. Our lives would depend on these forecasts back up the mountain. Each morning, the entire team would crowd eagerly around the laptop t..
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Eton, for all its virtues, seriously lacked girls. (Well, apart from the kitchen girls who we camped out on the roof waiting for night after night.) But beyond that, and the occasional foxy daughter of a teacher, it was a desert. (Talking of foxy daughters, I did desperately fancy the beautiful Lela, who was the daughter of the clarinet teacher. But she ended up marrying one of my best friends from Eton, Tom Amies--and everyone was very env..
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I also believe strongly in the powerful words: "I took the road less traveled, and that has made all the difference." They are good ones to live by. The big, final motivator was that I really wasn't enjoying my university studies. I loved the Brunel and our small group of buddies there, but the actual university experience was killing me. (Not the workload, I hasten to add, which was pleasantly chilled, but rather the whole deal of feeling ..
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Neil's feet were still numb from the frostbite. Long exposure up high, sat waiting in the snow for all those hours at the Balcony, had taken their toll. At base camp, we bandaged them up, kept them warm, and purposefully didn't discuss the very real prospect of him losing his toes. He didn't need to be told that he was unlikely ever to feel them again properly. Either way, we realized that the best option for them was to get him proper medi..
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I mean, what does it say about someone if you describe them as a 'trying' person? It means they try our patience to the limit!) Somewhere in our brains the word 'try' gets associated with phrases like 'He tried his best' and 'Try again' or 'I'll try to make it'. It's almost as if to do something means you're setting yourself up to fail short of your goal. So I swap the word 'try' for the better version: If you endeavour to do something, ..
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It is always strange looking back at a time that has had such a profound impact on one's life. And when it comes to Everest, I see two very clear things: friendships that were forged in a tough crucible, and a faith that sustained me through the good, the bad, and the ugly. I survived and reached the top of that mountain because of the bonds I had with those beside me. Of that I am in no doubt. Without Mick and Neil, I would have been nothi..
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It took me quite a while to begin to recover physically from Everest. The thick, rich air of sea level, in comparison to the ultrathin air of Everest, was intoxicating--and at times it felt like too much. Several times I fainted and had quite bad nosebleeds. As if from oxygen overload. Above all, I slept like a baby. For the first time in years, I had no fear, no doubts, no sense of foreboding. It felt amazing. Everest had taken all my hear..
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One of the other questions I often got asked when we returned home was: "Did you find God on the mountain?" The real answer is you don't have to climb a big mountain to find faith. It's simpler than that--thank God. If you asked me did He help me up there, then the answer would be yes. Every faltering step of the way."
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My Everest story would be incomplete if I didn't give final credit to the Sherpas who had risked their lives alongside us every day. Pasang and Ang-Sering still climb together as best friends, under the direction of their Sirdar boss--Kami. The Khumba Icefall specialist, Nima, still carries out his brave task in the jumbled ice maze at the foot of the mountain: repairing and fixing the route through. Babu Chiri, who so bravely helped Mick w..
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Trucker and I hoped simply to try and stay "gray men" and not be noticed. To put our heads down and get on and quietly do the work. This didn't exactly go according to plan. "Where are the lads who speak like Prince Charles?" The 23 DS shouted on the first parade when we arrived. "Would you both like newspapers with your morning tea, gents?" the DS sarcastically enquired. Part of me was tempted to answer how nice that would be, but I resist..
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If I had to sum up what happened on that journey for me, from the hospital bed to the summit of the world, I tend to think of it as a stumbling journey. Of losing my confidence and my strength--then refinding it. Of seeing my hope and my faith slip away--and then having them rekindled. Ultimately, if I had to pass on one message to my children it would be this: Fortune favors the brave. Most of the time.
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The other final memory, from growing up on the island, is of going on a monster run one day, and getting very bad groin rub on the last mile towards home. I had endured the rubbing for the previous eight miles, but it was now becoming agony. No one was around, the village was deserted, it was a warm summer's evening, so I took my shorts off and continued the final leg of the run naked. No
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Finally, I broke through and hit the steep track on the far side of the forest, and spotted the lone DS tent, silhouetted against the skyline. The routine when arriving at a checkpoint was rigorously enforced. You approached the checkpoint, crouched down on one knee, map folded tightly in one hand, compass in the other, and weapon cradled in your arms. Then you announced yourself. Name. Number. The DS would then give you your next six-figur..
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Our next test weekend was in a particularly hellish area of the Welsh mountains--remote, godforsaken, and full of even more boggy, ankle-twisting moon grass. The area became known affectionately by the other recruits as simply: "The asshole of the world."
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The next few weeks were a real struggle. Mental turmoil was a new emotion for me, and not a fun one. I felt I had let myself down, and that I had wasted four months of my life to hard, cold misery, and all for nothing. I was depressed and I felt useless. And that was on a good day.
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Psalm 121 says: Good person to have on side, I always figure.
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By the way, it is also good to know that faith isn't one-sided. As Christ said: 'I have come to seek and save.' He is out looking for us, too. So be brave and let Him do his side of the bargain.
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The next few weeks were a real struggle. Mental turmoil was a new emotion for me, and not a fun one. I felt I had let myself down, and that I had wasted four months of my life to hard, cold misery, and all for nothing. I was depressed and I felt useless. And that was on a good day. The only silver lining was that my squadron training team had invited me back to try once more--if I wanted to. It would involve going all the way back to the st..
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Finally, I could see the four-ton trucks below me, parked in a small turnout next to a dam at the foot of the mountains. I raced down to the dam and clocked in. I knew I was slow, as I could see all the other recruits huddled in the woods next to the dam's entrance. Wispy trails of smoke drifted up from the many little self-contained army Hexi stoves, each heating individual mugs of sweet tea. I knew the score. Each recruit quietly working ..
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Ed Amies, one of my oldest and closest friends, told my simply that: "So often, God's callings have a birth, a death, and then a resurrection." I had had the birth, and had got stuck into Selection; I had had the death, at that fateful dam in the Welsh mountains--now was a logical time for the resurrection. If my faith stood for anything it was this: miracles really can happen."
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Ed Amies, one of my oldest and closest friends, told my simply that: "So often, God's callings have a birth, a death, and then a resurrection." I had had the birth, and had got stuck into Selection; I had had the death, at that fateful dam in the Welsh mountains--now was a logical time for the resurrection. If my faith stood for anything it was this: miracles really can happen. So I made the decision to try again. This time, though, I woul..
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It was now wintertime, and winter Selection is always considered the tougher course, because of the mountain conditions. I tried not to think about this. Instead of the blistering heat and midges, our enemies would be the freezing, driving sleet, the high winds, and the short daylight hours. These made Trucker and me look back on the summer Selection days as quite balmy and pleasant! It is strange how accustomed you become to hardship, and ..
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The sun was warm on my face. I knew we were safe at last. The vast bottle of Champagne, that had sat like some Buddha at base camp for three months, was ceremoniously produced. It took four of us almost ten minutes, hacking away with ice axes, finally to get the cork out. The party had begun. I felt like drinking a gallon of this beautiful bubbly stuff, but my body just couldn't. Sipping slowly was all I could manage without sneezing, and e..
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Shara met me at the airport in London, dressed in her old familiar blue woolen overcoat that I loved so much. She was bouncing like a little girl with excitement. Everest was nothing compared to seeing her. I was skinny, long-haired, and wearing some very suspect flowery Nepalese trousers. I short, I looked a mess, but I was so happy. I had been warned by Henry at base camp not to rush into anything "silly" when I saw Shara again. He had to..
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Shara met me at the airport in London, dressed in her old familiar blue woolen overcoat that I loved so much. She was bouncing like a little girl with excitement. Everest was nothing compared to seeing her. I was skinny, long-haired, and wearing some very suspect flowery Nepalese trousers. I short, I looked a mess, but I was so happy. I had been warned by Henry at base camp not to rush into anything "silly" when I saw Shara again. He had to..
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There was another whole bunch of hopefuls. They would diminish down at a startling rate. We had seen it happen before. This time, though, we were there as the "old hands." And it helped. We knew what to expect; the mystique had gone, and the prize was up for grabs. That was empowering. It was now wintertime, and winter Selection is always considered the tougher course, because of the mountain conditions. I tried not to think about this. Ins..
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My worst ever speech was one I did for a pharmaceutical company in South Africa. They were paying me $1,000 and my airfare. It was a fortune to me at the time, and I couldn't believe my luck. That would last Shara and me for months. I soon found myself at a hotel in the Drakensberg Mountains, waiting for six hundred sales staff to arrive at the conference center. Their bus journey up had been a long one and they had been supplied with beer..
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The best advice came from the legendary actor the late Sir John Mills, who I sat next to backstage at a lecture we were doing together. He told me he considered the key to public speaking to be this: "Be sincere, be brief, be seated." Inspired words. And it changed the way I spoke publicly from then on. Keep it short. Keep it from the heart. Men tend to think that they have to be funny, witty, or incisive onstage. You don't. You just have t..
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The that gets published each year sends out the message that having more money than the next person is something to aspire to. This had led to a culture where - once we have grabbed hold of whatever money we can - we hold on to it as tightly as possible...or else! This same culture says that if you give it away then you will simply end up poorer. But the little-known secret of money is that it really works in reverse: it is only when a pe..
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It's not how much money you have that matters, it's what you do with it. That's how to become really rich. Let me give you an example of someone who is ridiculously rich, in every sense of the word. Let me introduce you to Dave. This is how Dave works: whenever he comes across great, everyday people, whoever they are - whether it's a shy 17-year-old just leaving school with a longing to visit his absent father who now lives in Canada; or a ..
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Luckily those simple values meant much more to him than my school reports - which weren't always glowing! I have always tried to follow his advice, but I also adapted his mantra to take it one stage further... So here is what I tell young Scouts or young adventurers who ask me what the key is to living a fulfilled life. I keep it pretty simple. I call them the five Fs. None of them requires a degree, and all of them are within our reach. Ju..
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So here is what I tell young Scouts or young adventurers who ask me what the key is to living a fulfilled life. I keep it pretty simple. I call them the five Fs. None of them requires a degree, and all of them are within our reach. Just make them your priority, write them on your bathroom mirror, let them seep into your subconscious over time, and soon they will be like a compass guiding you to make the right decisions for your life. - but..
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But it was the other things I witnessed in India that really blew my mind. In the back streets of Calcutta I saw sights that just should not happen: legless, blind, ragged bodies, lying in filth-strewn gutters, holding out their blistered arms to beg for a few rupees. I felt overwhelmed, inadequate and powerless - all at once. I sought out the mission run by Mother Teresa and saw there how simple things - cleanliness, calm, care and love - ..
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Sometimes things just don't 'feel' right - even if all the outward signs seem to be pointing us towards a certain course of action. When that happens, listen to that voice. It is God-given and it is our deep subconscious helping us. You see, we all tend to act in accordance with our rational, conscious minds. Talented climbers and adventurers know that to reach a summit or achieve a goal we have to use all the 'weapons' in our arsenal - no..
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Jenomze ,,nemozne" neni dobre slovo, kdyz se pokousite prezit."
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